Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 1.5 Gallon Kit, 2-4 inch Super Clear Amazing Flow Casting Resin Kit, High Temp Heat UV Resistant Food Safe Epoxy, Bubble Free Low Viscosity Cast Coat Stone Wood

I’ve used epoxy resins before. This is by far the easiest to use resin I’ve used. It doesn’t have a bad small. It’s thin (but not too thin to cause a giant mess) and takes a long time to cure, so there’s plenty of time to address imperfections. The few bubbles that are left after pouring are easily removed with a torch. It cures crystal clear with a high gloss finish. I cannot recommend this stuff enough.

Seasoned woodworker, but first deep pour river table...so take this for what's it worth.First off, the epoxy is crystal clear. The micro bubbles came out of it with minimal effort using a torch.I used 2" thick black walnut slabs with about a 4-7 inch river in between. Mold was 3/4 MDF covered with clear packing tape then a heavy coat of past wax. sides to bottom was caulked. ZERO leaks and easy to remove project from mold.Also, I sealed the live edges first using their tabletop epoxy- I highly recommend this step. Brushed on a thin coat, placed in the mold, then tried to seal the bottom of the wood to the mold. I let this dry 2-4 hours as per manufactures recommendation, then poured the deep river.Things I wished I would have known to do:1. This epoxy takes a long time to get hard....3 days to cure. Fine. However, I used a green Mica powder and poured the river at about 4 PM. I kept stirring the mica around until I got a cool pattern I liked, only to come back a hour later and seen that it settled into a totally different pattern. Stir again...hour later same thing. This went on and on until 2 AM and the epoxy showed no sign of thickening enough to hold the pattern I liked.Went to bed. Set the alarm for 6 AM, but by then, it was too late as the epoxy had thickened to where stirring was out of the question. I think if you pour in the AM hours, the timing would be such you could baby sit it and keep a eye on when to get the stir pattern you like. It needs to thicken up a little to hold. So plan the pour accordingly. If you are using a tint or dye or even just clear, then pour it, get the bubbles out then walk away and wait2. This epoxy shrinks. I poured with my form being perfectly level in all directions and poured until it just slightly mounded over the top. 3 days later, fully cured, it was down at least 1/8 of an inch from the top surface of the walnut. The way to counter this is to put a bead of caulking along both river edges then pour to the top of the caulking. I've seen this done in videos, but did not do it. I wish I had, because after you get done flattening your slabs, the project gets thinner. I started with a little over 1 7/8" thick and ended up with 1 5/8" Not a huge deal, but something to keep in mind3. Think hard about green.....looks nice in pictures, but in retrospect....kinda disappointing compared to blues, and blacks, and other hues. Personal preference, but I thought I'd throw that in there. Has nothing to do with the epoxy.In summary, I'm very happy I went with this product and will use it again for sure. I had a technical question for the manufacturer, so I reached out via email and got my answer the next day. This stuff has no bubbles if done correctly, machines and sands very well.

Amazing clarity and easy to use

This stuff was pretty easy to work with. Not sure if it was required, but I did de-air this in my vacuum chamber before pouring. The viscosity is low enough that my container was pretty full going in amd still did not bubble over.It is still runny enough like 18hours later to keep the surface perfectly smooth and level even if you disturb it, then goes off to be reasonably cured in 24.I feel like it did a good job on my project.

I'm new to the use of epoxy resins so I know there will be a learning curve. I've read lots of 'advice' from other users etc and overall I've had good success and outcomes, however still have some bubbles and 'imperfections' in my results often. My sense is it's 'user error' verses product. I do find that overall the appearance is crystal clear and it provides a gorgeous finish. I will update as I get into it more seriously and hopefully experience will be a good teacher.

This was my first attempt with a deep pour epoxy and my experience with a test run went extremely well. I followed the directions carefully and made my pour in a small room that I was able to control the temperature with a little space heater set to 75 degrees. I used mica pigment powder that was mixed into the epoxy after the transfer to the second container. The pigments held very well, however I did notice the darker pigments fell lower to the bottom of the mold - not sure if it's because most of this color I poured first and then had the lighter blue pigments poured on top of it, but I did do some mixing with a stick and it seemed to settle again - so further testing is needed. Aside from that, the colors still turned out beautifully - I had just under 24 hours of setup time where the epoxy was still liquid enough to mix and move around as needed. between 24 and 36 hours, the epoxy had turned very gooey and tacky and by 48 hours it was solid enough to remove the mold from. At 72 hours, the epoxy was fully hard and stable. I made a small test pour of 4 inches by 10 inches by 1.25 inches with small boards of wood angled across the mold with the epoxy. I sanded everything up to 2000 grit and it felt like glass - my girlfriend didn't believe i didn't have a finish coat on it, it was so smooth and shiny. Overall wonderful epoxy, I will be purchasing again for use in much larger projects in the coming months.